Frances Lake Wilderness Lodge News
Frances Lake Wilderness Lodge

News from Frances Lake






Archive 2016

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#26 - Winter 2016

Dear Friends and Guests

Winter silence – winter calm – winter sleep. In winter it's incredibly quiet at Frances Lake. Only few sounds can be heard in the snowy, wintry landscape. The most common natural noise is a faint whisper of wind rushing in the trees. But there are our own sounds and noises when we move along: the snow crunching underfoot, the snowshoes flopping on powder snow or the rhythmic swish of our cross-country skis. Also in the animal world it's much calmer during the cold and dark winter season. Many animals have an energy-saving winter rest or even a true winter sleep. The majority of birds use their ability to fly and move south or to the coast in fall. However, we see many signs of the remaining animals on the snow like their tracks, feeding sites or droppings. Often we cross tracks of moose, wolves, snowshoe hares, martens, squirrels and ptarmigans.

Ptarmigan in winter plumage Animal tracks at an open water site Squirrel midden (spruce cone scales)

Despite winter calm, we also have our active phases. This year we dealt with long pending work on our winter trail. Equipped with chain saw, pruner and shovel we cleared dead wood out of the way, cut bushes and straightened the trail. Due to these improvements our trail became shorter and much easier to use. And besides we got plenty of great firewood. In fact, cutting firewood is another arduous and time-consuming winter job, as we need large quantities to get us through the winter and have warm and cozy cabins ready for our guests.

Deadfall across the skidoo trail Cutting firewood Marking the trail

This year's winter in the Yukon was much warmer than average. We never got any cold spells below -35°C. With about half a metre, the snowpack at Frances Lake was rather shallow and very loose, which made it strenuous for walking around on snowshoes. And on the lake widespread overflow conditions persisted for weeks, limiting our activities there. Overflow is a treacherous phenomenon out here, if water swells up through tension cracks in the lake ice, producing slush pockets underneath the insulating snow cover which are often invisible from above. Although the lake ice is more than safe (about 80 cm thick), the slushy overflow layer above it (up to 50 cm deep) can soak your boots or easily sink your snowmobile. And then you have to act fast, as once exposed to the cold surface temperatures the slushy water will freeze within minutes. But on the other hand, the extensive overflow made for an easy drinking water supply all winter and we never had to dig more than a few seconds to obtain liquid water...

Winter scenery in dazzling sunlight (moose tracks in the foreground) Cross-country skiing on immaculate trails Snowy forest at the lodge

One weekend we went on "holidays around the corner". To be precise, we stayed a few nights in our self-built log cabin on the other side of the peninsula which now serves as a self-contained guest cabin. Intense memories of the laborious construction time came to mind, but now we could enjoy the pleasures of actually using it. And after our own personal winter test we can truly say: it's a lovely, cozy and very functional cabin. Is there anything nicer than relaxing after a rich winter's day in front of the crackling wood stove, watching out of the window by candle light as the night falls and snow starts falling silently. By the way, for coming summer we still have plenty of vacancies in our self-contained rental cabin.

Self-contained rental cabin at nightfall Cozy log cabin Crackling wood stove

Indeed, the coming summer season is approaching fast. For full-service lodge stay we still have vacancies in late June, from August 8 – 14 and from August 26 until September 20 (end of season). Also our Yusezyu River canoe trip, as part of the Wild Yukon-Program, is not fully booked yet and we're particularly looking for a single person or a group of three to fill up canoes with an even number of paddlers. Therefore we offer this year's Yusezyu River canoe trip for a single person without single occupancy surcharge, or 10% discount for a group of three!


Kind regards, and see you soon...

Andrea & Martin Laternser


Mountain vista from Frances Lake East Arm


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#27 - July 2016

Dear Friends and Guests

By now summer is in full swing. The predominantly sunny and comfortably warm weather (up to 30°C) is perfect for vacationers from around the world to enjoy their wilderness holidays with us at Frances Lake. The friendly atmosphere and delicious food, soothing peace and plenty of time for relaxation, sightseeing trips by boat on the strikingly beautiful lake or active exploration by canoe and on foot in midst of pristine wilderness. Already in the beginning of July the first guests (kids) were floundering about in the still chilly water at 16°C. By mid-July (18°C) the first adults dared to go for a swim, too.

Summer clouds over Frances Lake Cozy guest cabin Black bear patrolling the shoreline

After an extremely mild winter nature awakened about 3 weeks earlier from hibernation than normal. The snow was mostly gone by mid-April. The ice on the lake was out by May 6th. In mid-May the poplar leaves were sprouting and soon later the first flowers were blooming. A pair of sandpipers was nesting only two metres in front of the lodge porch and the snowshoe hares had numerous offspring. It’s blooming, flitting, sprouting and tweeting around our lodge. Nature literally explodes and enjoys the short, intensive Nordic summer to the fullest.

Inquisitive snowshoe hare Fireweed blossom Sandpiper clutch

This spring we were traveling for a few weeks down south on Vancouver Island and along the B.C. and Alaska coast. We enjoyed the very nice scenery with plenty of forests and (for us Yukoners) excitingly large trees. On foot, by canoe and on many ferry passages we explored the wild coastline and dived into the lush rainforest. But our joy and excitement was frequently marred and we were profoundly alarmed and shocked by the massive extent of logging. About half the area of all temperate rainforests on Earth grows along the Pacific coast of Alaska – British Columbia – Washington – Oregon down to northern California. These forests are the largest biomass producers of our planet. But 90% of their original extent has been logged over the past 150 years. It is true that forest regrows, but it takes at least 1000 years for a fully functional rainforest ecosystem to be back in place. The large forest areas on Earth (temperate and tropical rainforests, as well as the boreal forests of Russia and Canada) are crucial for the survival of mankind and our planet’s ecosystem, for they are directly and indirectly responsible for the production of oxygen, clean drinking water, food production and a sustainable global climate.

Previously: well-balanced old-growth rainforest ecosystem During logging: clear-cut area and extermination of many species Afterwards: fast-growing monoculture of little ecological value

Our journey down south made us very reflective about the exploitation of our natural resources like forests, soil, water, air, fossil fuels and minerals by the rapidly growing world population. Rethinking (and acting!) is essential. A first step to achieve this is the recognition of the problem. The view out of the window during a flight from Vancouver to Whitehorse along the Pacific coast in fine weather will reveal a first impression of the many and large clear-cut areas. A more pleasant and very scenic alternative is taking the ferry from Vancouver/Seattle along the Inside Passage to Skagway (Alaska) and connecting by railway and bus to Whitehorse. Especially in early summer (May/June) we can highly recommend this routing, as the coastal mountains are still nicely snow covered and it’s not so touristy yet...

Misty fiords of the Inside Passage Sea lions posing on a navigational buoy Lighthouse along the Alaska coastline

Finally, in our ecologically coloured newsletter we would also like to point out to a home-made Yukon issue. Since many years there’s an open conflict between the public and the Yukon Government about the land use planning process for the Peel River watershed in the northeast of the territory. The government would like to open 70% of the largely pristine wilderness area (68,000 km2 or 15% of the entire territory) to industrial development, including mining and fossil fuel extraction. An overwhelming majority of the population would like to have this area of outstanding beauty, homeland to four First Nations and one of the largest unspoilt natural areas in North America protected. Two court decisions are already in favour of those supporting protection and next year the case will be heard by the Supreme Court of Canada, the highest court in the country. At Protect The Peel you’ll find detailed information about the case and we like to invite you to take action now, sign the Peel Pledge and show your support for one of today’s most important nature conservation issues of Canada. Also voices from other countries and from overseas are important. Thank you very much!


With kind regards,

Andrea & Martin Laternser


The untamed and braided Wind River, a major tributary of the Peel River


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#28 - Review 2016

Dear Friends and Guests

2016 was characterized by a very early and warm spring and summer. After the mild winter the ice on Frances Lake was out three weeks earlier than usual. Accordingly, the vegetation sprouted earlier and the pleasant summer weather had a strong impact on the growing cycle: flowers, berries and fruits, as well as fall colours – everything came a few weeks earlier than normal. Also mosquitoes weren’t much of an issue this year and soon disappeared again. The early spring and the nice, pleasant summer were a real treat.

Midsummer at Frances Lake Paddling in the East Arm Evening light above the lodge


«But I don’t wanna leave from here!»


These were the plain words of 8-year-old Wilko from Toronto at the end of the vacation at our lodge. During the past season several families spent their holidays with us in the Yukon wilderness. Many children and teenagers enjoyed the unique experience and the unlimited freedom which nature offers out here and they could easily entertain themselves, even without a smartphone. And of course also their parents could benefit from having more time for themselves. Thus, all our guests experienced their own magical moments, be it while building a raft, going for a sunset stroll around the lodge, on an adventurous canoe trip, watching animals or losing track of time while angling. The joy is well reflected by various guest book entries and emails:

«Notre séjour à Frances Lake restera la plus belle étape de notre voyage et c'est
grâce à vous que l'envie de revenir est déjà dans nos projets.»
(Annick & Laurent)


«These were incredibly beautiful, interesting, diversified, relaxing and informative vacations which we can highly recommend to anyone!»
(Monika & Stefan)


Enjoying the self-made raft Family walk Moose encounter

One day, on a balmy summer evening, we received an exclusive visit. In the last beam of sunlight a magnificent lynx came strolling along the shoreline towards our lodge. After thoroughly scanning our place – and growing suspicious of all the observers, boats and cabins around – eventually it disappeared in the bush, becoming instantly invisible. On other occasions, twice we had black bears swimming across the bay in front of the lodge, very determined but apparently undeterred by our lodge operation. Also, memorable events were the cheeky river otters patrolling the shallow waters near the lodge chasing small fish around our boats.

Elusive lynx Inquisitive river otter Nosy black bear

Before and after our summer guest season, as usual we carried out various pending renewal and renovation works. Notably replacing the roof of the main lodge will be well remembered. Transporting and working with the heavy roofing material was physically exhausting and because of the changeable weather and the fast approaching guest season we were pressed for time. Immediately noticeable for guests is the new floor in the main lodge and the newly installed lighting in the guest cabins. Thanks to new 12 volt LED lamps and solar-powered batteries our guests will now enjoy a warm, soft light in their log cabins. The first users this fall appreciated this moderate technical upgrade and the achieved additional comfort very much.

New floor in the main lodge Replacing the roof on the main lodge Electrical light in a guest cabin


Ed Festel in front of the lodge (1988)It is with much sadness that we have to announce the passing away of Ed Festel, the founder of Frances Lake Wilderness Lodge. On August 25, 2016, aged 64, he died of multiple myeloma. Originally from Berne (Switzerland), Ed lived an adventurous career leading fellow outdoors folks through the mountains of Europe, Asia and the Americas. In 1985 he immigrated to Canada and settled in his beloved Yukon Territory where he founded Frances Lake Wilderness Lodge and Nature Tours of Yukon. Later he operated the River View Hotel in Whitehorse and served on the board of the Tourism Association of the Yukon. Beside tourism, aviation was a large part of Ed’s life and he was an excellent aviator. When he finally retired to Penticton (B.C.) in 2010 he became a stalwart member of the Penticton Flying Club. Ed had an awesome ability to organize and motivate and we are very grateful for his pioneering endeavours for wilderness tourism in general, and for the establishment of Frances Lake Wilderness Lodge in particular. Without him, this magnificent place would likely not exist.

Slide Show Thomas SbampatoDuring winter 2016/17 famous photographer Thomas Sbampato will be touring Germany, Austria and Switzerland with his latest slide show «Kanada Alaska – North of Normal». Last year Sbampato was visiting our lodge and his awesome imagery and video cuts from Frances Lake can now be seen in his impressive "best of show" on large screen. On all shows in Switzerland in January 2017 we’ll be personally present and look forward to meet familiar and new Canada fans. The current show list is available here.

As usual, in late January we’ll also present our lodge at the Swiss travel trade show FESPO in Zurich. Already now our full lodge and tour program 2017 is online. Next season – our tenth – is already well booked. So if you’re interested in coming, please contact us early to avoid disappointment.


Kind regards and have a nice winter,

Andrea & Martin Laternser


Indian summer at Frances Lake East Arm

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